Sorry for those of you who have been following my blog and found no new pretty things. The reason is that I have been bedridden for about a week. I got bitten by a spider three times; or the arachnid version of the Three Musketeers. I am just glad that I did not end up in hospital. Yes, I did have a doctor look at it, who told me to look out for it going black, or filling with pus, or growing roots in my leg-meats. It didn't but I am still a bit fragile.
Well I am off to go and take a gander at the Hermanus Whale Festival. I have been checking out some interesting places around Hermanus the last two days and cannot wait to tell you all about it.
Saturday, September 29, 2012
Friday, September 14, 2012
Hermanus At Night
I have watch the old fishing village of Hermanus grow for over a decade. From climbing the rocks between the old and new harbour, to to walking from bar to bar; this town has co-written a part of my history. As the whale-watching season in October brings tourists from all over the world to watch the Humpback and other whales with their young, the town has shaped itself to better aid the viewing of it. There are guest houses aplenty and over five bars in a three-block radius. Shopping mall after shopping mall is constructed, with land carefully laid out for future developments. Though out of season the heart of Hermanus, thick with people during the day, is peaceful. The architecture spans a certify, one that was in flux between aesthetic and practicality.
At night subtle colours play with the tarmac. With the only accompanying sound your footsteps, and occasionally your off-key humming, the mind has ample space to wander. These streets have never felt lonely to me. I have walked them in joys, in sadness and in regret. Even though large sections have changed so drastically, an essence of the town still remains. For all that has been added or removed; the lives that have passed through it, somehow it is still Hermanus. Maybe towns have their own spirit, or Kami. They call to you when you leave them, or even push you out if you have stayed too long. How much is a place reflected by its people -- or do the people start to reflect the place? I will have to think about that. When I have been to more places and walked their streets at night I will tell you. For now, I will simply wonder
At night subtle colours play with the tarmac. With the only accompanying sound your footsteps, and occasionally your off-key humming, the mind has ample space to wander. These streets have never felt lonely to me. I have walked them in joys, in sadness and in regret. Even though large sections have changed so drastically, an essence of the town still remains. For all that has been added or removed; the lives that have passed through it, somehow it is still Hermanus. Maybe towns have their own spirit, or Kami. They call to you when you leave them, or even push you out if you have stayed too long. How much is a place reflected by its people -- or do the people start to reflect the place? I will have to think about that. When I have been to more places and walked their streets at night I will tell you. For now, I will simply wonder
Jax
In the last few weeks I have visited many bars in different towns. I have started to notice a pattern, a relationship between the places I visit and the bars those places create. Hence I am constructing "Bar Theory." It is a complex science involving the the evolution of bars in relation to the size and population of a town or city. The theory is still in its infancy; but let me share with you some my my thoughts, as well as its relation to a specific bar here in Hermanus.
A town's first bar either caters to the locals or to tourists; although almost all of the time, it is the former. This is because a bar's life-blood is its regulars, hence it makes sense to create a venue that caters to the more stable clientèle. The nature of the local bar will be an interesting insight into the ethos of the town. Then, as the town gets bigger and starts to have a large enough youth population, a meat-market is erected. This will provide the youth with a dance floor for the act of gyrating courtship; and often stays open longer than most other places. Essentially it's a place you go to dance, or to try and find a warm body to occupy the night with. That type of venue will eventually be insufficient for the more alternative youth who want a place where they can relax, feel at home, and enjoy the music which they prefer. These range from metal clubs to rock bars, and often have pool tables. Those are my kind of bars. So let me tell you about the one I found in Hermanus; Jax.
Tucked away in an alley, in the heart of Hermanus, is a bar that for many years went by the name Marimba. Then it was more of a locals' bar, where almost everyone who drank there knew the owner. I worked there when I had just finished Matric. After six years, and many different owners, the place is now more of a rock bar. The atmosphere is relaxed, and people often plug there cellphones into the PA system, and play their own music, if the bar is quiet enough for this not to be a problem for the other patrons. It even has something that is sorely missed in other bars: a jukebox.
One night there I ended up dancing Gangam Style with a stranger and spoke at length to a woman who would like me to run her guest house during December. Sadly I have not heard back from her, and she would not give me her number. Oh well.
If you are the kind of person who likes to go out, but hates clubs and enjoys music with instruments in them, then Jax is a good place to go. It attracts a very relaxed crowd, and the bartender (who came down to Hermanus for a month and has been here for almost three years) assures me that there are never any fights there. I find it strange how the more demonised sub-cultures; like metal-heads and bikers, often are the more relaxed, and have the safest venues and events. Guys with piercings and tattoos, I find, are the least likely to start a fight. Often it is more those who are well-dressed and socially considered respectable, who cause trouble with a person who offends his sense of normality. The amount of times I had to endure drunken barrages when I had long hair is unbelievable. People who wear leather, dye their hair seven different colours, put metal in their skin, or do menial jobs, have the same feelings as those who wear suits and ties. I like the freaks of society, because in truth they are far less strange. They have chosen to be who they are despite the reactions -- or maybe because of them.
Oh well. I think I may have lost the ploy of the assize some sentences back.
A town's first bar either caters to the locals or to tourists; although almost all of the time, it is the former. This is because a bar's life-blood is its regulars, hence it makes sense to create a venue that caters to the more stable clientèle. The nature of the local bar will be an interesting insight into the ethos of the town. Then, as the town gets bigger and starts to have a large enough youth population, a meat-market is erected. This will provide the youth with a dance floor for the act of gyrating courtship; and often stays open longer than most other places. Essentially it's a place you go to dance, or to try and find a warm body to occupy the night with. That type of venue will eventually be insufficient for the more alternative youth who want a place where they can relax, feel at home, and enjoy the music which they prefer. These range from metal clubs to rock bars, and often have pool tables. Those are my kind of bars. So let me tell you about the one I found in Hermanus; Jax.
Tucked away in an alley, in the heart of Hermanus, is a bar that for many years went by the name Marimba. Then it was more of a locals' bar, where almost everyone who drank there knew the owner. I worked there when I had just finished Matric. After six years, and many different owners, the place is now more of a rock bar. The atmosphere is relaxed, and people often plug there cellphones into the PA system, and play their own music, if the bar is quiet enough for this not to be a problem for the other patrons. It even has something that is sorely missed in other bars: a jukebox.
One night there I ended up dancing Gangam Style with a stranger and spoke at length to a woman who would like me to run her guest house during December. Sadly I have not heard back from her, and she would not give me her number. Oh well.
If you are the kind of person who likes to go out, but hates clubs and enjoys music with instruments in them, then Jax is a good place to go. It attracts a very relaxed crowd, and the bartender (who came down to Hermanus for a month and has been here for almost three years) assures me that there are never any fights there. I find it strange how the more demonised sub-cultures; like metal-heads and bikers, often are the more relaxed, and have the safest venues and events. Guys with piercings and tattoos, I find, are the least likely to start a fight. Often it is more those who are well-dressed and socially considered respectable, who cause trouble with a person who offends his sense of normality. The amount of times I had to endure drunken barrages when I had long hair is unbelievable. People who wear leather, dye their hair seven different colours, put metal in their skin, or do menial jobs, have the same feelings as those who wear suits and ties. I like the freaks of society, because in truth they are far less strange. They have chosen to be who they are despite the reactions -- or maybe because of them.
Oh well. I think I may have lost the ploy of the assize some sentences back.
Thursday, September 13, 2012
Travel Buddy
I am the the type of person who enjoys things more when I get to share them with other people. This ranges from a good bottle of wine to a sunset. The road has shown me many beautiful things; from hills of sweeping majesty, to forests clad in mist. Though, after a while I started to get a bit depressed. I tended to turn to the empty passenger seat and say "Hey look at ... right there's no one there, how silly of me."
So on the way to Swellendam I turned into a petrol station in Albertinia, which also had a farm stall attached to it. When I was pursuing the the merchandise I came across a basket filled with little hand-stitched figures, some in the shape of animals. But one of them caught my attention, for in this little creatures pink button eyes I saw a friend. Admittedly the days of travel had made me a bit Schizotypal. I was actively giddy at the notion of having a travel buddy; I even got chocolate milk to help me celebrate -- not sure why though.
My suggestion is, if you are going to go on a trip, perhaps it's not best to go at it alone. It always helps to have another person on hand who can drive as well, and if something happens to you there is always some one who can help, or flag down a car on your behalf. Falling asleep behind the wheel is also very dangerous and I know more than one person who has been seriously injured as a result of that same. Yet if you cannot find a person to ride with then get yourself a "Wilson" -- you know, from that movie with Tom Hanks. He's stuck on an island; I think his wife marries his best friend, so on and so forth. Just having something on you dashboard even to converse with. I know we can all pretend to be above such seemingly insane action, but when you are alone in a car, you are bound to do some silly, if not down right crazy things. The longer the road, the crazier the thing will be.
So here is Buddy, my very unimaginatively name Travel Buddy. It was just easier to say things like, "Hey Buddy", or "look over there Buddy", without having to insert an obligatory name.
So on the way to Swellendam I turned into a petrol station in Albertinia, which also had a farm stall attached to it. When I was pursuing the the merchandise I came across a basket filled with little hand-stitched figures, some in the shape of animals. But one of them caught my attention, for in this little creatures pink button eyes I saw a friend. Admittedly the days of travel had made me a bit Schizotypal. I was actively giddy at the notion of having a travel buddy; I even got chocolate milk to help me celebrate -- not sure why though.
 |
| Love me or be damned |
So here is Buddy, my very unimaginatively name Travel Buddy. It was just easier to say things like, "Hey Buddy", or "look over there Buddy", without having to insert an obligatory name.
Tuesday, September 11, 2012
Sedgefield
I know, it is not what should be done, but I simply drove through Sedgefield. Now, this is no reflection on the place. I really did not feel like stopping there. I mean, I have had great times there. So by no means am I saying that you should not stop there. In case you do wish to see what the town has to offer, may I provide you with some information on Africa's first "cittaslow" Slow Town.
Sedgefield Office
30 Main Rd
Tel: +27 (0)444 343 2658
E-mail: sedgefield@knysna-info.co.za
Hiking Routes
Sedgefield Circular Walk
Oysterbank Walk
Gerickes Point Walk
Groenvlie/ Goukamma Trail
Camping & Caravanning
Swartvlei Caravan Park
+27 (0)44 889 0081/ +27 (0)83 530 5128
Lake Pleasant Resort
+27 (0)44 343 1985 - www.lake-pleasant.co.za
Arts & Crafts Market
Wild Oats Community Farmers Market
Sat: 8:00 - 11:30
+27 (0)82 376 5020
Scarab Village
Mon-Fri: 9:00 - 17:00 / Sat: 8:00 - 13:00
+27 (0)44 343 2455
Island Market
Sat: 8:00 - 13:00 / Tues - Sun: (9:00 - 17:00)
+27 (0)83 651 9950 / +27 (0)78 776 3839
islandmarket@vodamail.co.za
So, enjoy Sedgefield. Take many photographs you have crate-loads of fun, then rub it in my face. I am sure I'll deserve it, for all my negligence.
Sedgefield Office
30 Main Rd
Tel: +27 (0)444 343 2658
E-mail: sedgefield@knysna-info.co.za
Hiking Routes
Sedgefield Circular Walk
Oysterbank Walk
Gerickes Point Walk
Groenvlie/ Goukamma Trail
Camping & Caravanning
Swartvlei Caravan Park
+27 (0)44 889 0081/ +27 (0)83 530 5128
Lake Pleasant Resort
+27 (0)44 343 1985 - www.lake-pleasant.co.za
Arts & Crafts Market
Wild Oats Community Farmers Market
Sat: 8:00 - 11:30
+27 (0)82 376 5020
Scarab Village
Mon-Fri: 9:00 - 17:00 / Sat: 8:00 - 13:00
+27 (0)44 343 2455
Island Market
Sat: 8:00 - 13:00 / Tues - Sun: (9:00 - 17:00)
+27 (0)83 651 9950 / +27 (0)78 776 3839
islandmarket@vodamail.co.za
So, enjoy Sedgefield. Take many photographs you have crate-loads of fun, then rub it in my face. I am sure I'll deserve it, for all my negligence.
Bloo
In Monument Square, Knysna, you will find the "Bloo" sign above a blue door. Why yes, it is rather unobtrusive. In fact you would not be remiss for not noticing it at first-- but you would be wrong. Behind that door lies a winding pathway, leading from nook to another, up stairs and under draped archways, each with its own charm. The complexity of colour on enhances magic of unfolding spaces. If you want privacy, or a space to interact, there you will find both.
This is a restro-bar with great atmosphere. Sadly they were closed for restoration when I when popped in last, but I was told from more than one source that the food there is fantastic. Many people who have gone there had a great time. It is the type of place you can go out, have a great time, enjoy wonderful food, even let you hair down to the ground, without having to elbow through teenagers to get to the bar. The décor makes you feel like you have walked into a wonderland, or a favourable acid trip. Even if you just want an interesting place to sit down with a book, this is the kind of venue where you can find a comfortable space to do just that.
The place is owned by a well-travelled and interesting couple. They have many tales to tell, and will tell them with a smile. What I found most intriguing was the theatre that they have opened at the venue. They tell me that they will provide it free of charge to any one who wished to use it. Having spent some time among the dramatically inclined, I found this very exiting. Art needs but a space. So if you want to have exhibition, there is a space. If you are a comedian, a musician, an actor, or playwright, at least now you need not worry about finding a space in which to share your discipline. Were I any of the aforementioned I would jump at the opportunity. So for any of you who may be passing through and have something to show the world, now you don't have an excuse to not share it.
I think that what they are is not only admirable but needed. Too much does not get shared because of a lack of space, or opportunity or the choking tape of politics. To open your doors and say, "Here, show us all what you do", is an important step to nurturing the arts. From this, and the aesthetic of the place, I say we should all do our part to support these guys. Let us not sit ideally by and let this endeavour flicker and die. My heart would sink to the gutter if I were to drive past in the near future and find the space vacant. So I hope to see you guys there, hopefully on stage.
So if want to put on a show, use the space or even book the venue for a function, here is their number
Tel: 082 923 1185
I just had to show you bathroom. It is fantastically novel. I had taken a lot more photos, but unfortunately they were lost in a freak formatting accident
This is a restro-bar with great atmosphere. Sadly they were closed for restoration when I when popped in last, but I was told from more than one source that the food there is fantastic. Many people who have gone there had a great time. It is the type of place you can go out, have a great time, enjoy wonderful food, even let you hair down to the ground, without having to elbow through teenagers to get to the bar. The décor makes you feel like you have walked into a wonderland, or a favourable acid trip. Even if you just want an interesting place to sit down with a book, this is the kind of venue where you can find a comfortable space to do just that.
The place is owned by a well-travelled and interesting couple. They have many tales to tell, and will tell them with a smile. What I found most intriguing was the theatre that they have opened at the venue. They tell me that they will provide it free of charge to any one who wished to use it. Having spent some time among the dramatically inclined, I found this very exiting. Art needs but a space. So if you want to have exhibition, there is a space. If you are a comedian, a musician, an actor, or playwright, at least now you need not worry about finding a space in which to share your discipline. Were I any of the aforementioned I would jump at the opportunity. So for any of you who may be passing through and have something to show the world, now you don't have an excuse to not share it.
I think that what they are is not only admirable but needed. Too much does not get shared because of a lack of space, or opportunity or the choking tape of politics. To open your doors and say, "Here, show us all what you do", is an important step to nurturing the arts. From this, and the aesthetic of the place, I say we should all do our part to support these guys. Let us not sit ideally by and let this endeavour flicker and die. My heart would sink to the gutter if I were to drive past in the near future and find the space vacant. So I hope to see you guys there, hopefully on stage.
So if want to put on a show, use the space or even book the venue for a function, here is their number
Tel: 082 923 1185
I just had to show you bathroom. It is fantastically novel. I had taken a lot more photos, but unfortunately they were lost in a freak formatting accident
Friday, September 7, 2012
Flames Restaurant
There are many fine restaurants in Mossel Bay. They clad with enough stars to give Gordan Ramsay an erection, at which he would promptly start swearing. I am certain that their food is as good as their decor suggests; alas I cannot tell you for certain, mainly because I could not afford to eat that any of them. I am glad I couldn't, other wise I would not have found Flames.
There is a lot to be said about a bar that turns off the music so that every one can watch 7nde Laan. This bar cares about its clientele, and it show in their prices. R15 for a Double Brandy and Coke, R15 for a Quart, R49 for 500g ribs, R90 for 1kg of ribs. What is most surprising of all is how amazing the food is. The bones need only be gently pulled from the meat, and anything that may stick to it can be sucked off with ease. Do not get me started on the chips. They a a beautiful marriage between wedges and chips ... chipedge.
Although good food and good prices help, they are not the hallmarks of a great pub -- what of the people? Well let me just say that I met a man with a mullet so powerful I almost went blind. I also met an American who has been living in South Africa on and off since 2002. Although his name is Bernard, every one calls him Hazzard (yes, with two 'Z's). This is not because of anything he has done; mind you. He inherited it from his father, as his father had done before him; all the way back to the days of slaves. So go and ask your dad if you are inheriting anything as cool as a name like Hazzard. I suppose if you have a big enough trust fund you can get people to call you whatever you want. He is busy building a guest house for his wife to run when she retires and moves to South Africa permanently. The place is owned by a great white with a massive smile.
So if you are on the road, and money is tight (when is it not) and you still wish to eat like kings and drink like art students, then this is the place for you. You can find it on the road parallel to the main road, closer to the harbour side. If you struggle, ask a local. Stop here for lunch. It will add colour to your trip.
There is a lot to be said about a bar that turns off the music so that every one can watch 7nde Laan. This bar cares about its clientele, and it show in their prices. R15 for a Double Brandy and Coke, R15 for a Quart, R49 for 500g ribs, R90 for 1kg of ribs. What is most surprising of all is how amazing the food is. The bones need only be gently pulled from the meat, and anything that may stick to it can be sucked off with ease. Do not get me started on the chips. They a a beautiful marriage between wedges and chips ... chipedge.
Although good food and good prices help, they are not the hallmarks of a great pub -- what of the people? Well let me just say that I met a man with a mullet so powerful I almost went blind. I also met an American who has been living in South Africa on and off since 2002. Although his name is Bernard, every one calls him Hazzard (yes, with two 'Z's). This is not because of anything he has done; mind you. He inherited it from his father, as his father had done before him; all the way back to the days of slaves. So go and ask your dad if you are inheriting anything as cool as a name like Hazzard. I suppose if you have a big enough trust fund you can get people to call you whatever you want. He is busy building a guest house for his wife to run when she retires and moves to South Africa permanently. The place is owned by a great white with a massive smile.
So if you are on the road, and money is tight (when is it not) and you still wish to eat like kings and drink like art students, then this is the place for you. You can find it on the road parallel to the main road, closer to the harbour side. If you struggle, ask a local. Stop here for lunch. It will add colour to your trip.
Thursday, September 6, 2012
Bongos Pizza Lounge
As you drive past Wilderness, it is hard not to spot the sign on the forest side of town; with the Rasta gecko/lizard playing bongo drums. Every time I drive through wilderness, I make a point of stopping at Bongos. Over the years it has become a ritual. Their pizza is amazing, and definitely worth trying. The last pizza I ate there had salami, gherkins, jalapenos and mushrooms. It took me three hours to pick up all the bone fragments -- that's how much my mind was blown.
Not if, but when you stop there, you will meet the very friendly Marcia and Anton. No, my opinion of them and their establishment is not influenced by the fact that they gave me a cigar. The ambiance is just really great there. I even met two friendly photographers. They were shocked at the the camera I was (and still am) using to document my travels. Sadly no camera shop has rushed in to sponsor me (wink wink).
If you like pizza nearly half as much as I do, then this is definitely the place to go. They also have themed parties at the end of every month.
Cocomo Restaurant
In the heart of wilderness there is a restaurant that brims with colour. The twin fireplaces did a lot to impress my taste. Normally the amount of different colours and textures this place uses comes off as tacky; yet Cocomo pulls it all together. It is actually rather striking, and implements a unique and comfortable style. In the evening; with the lights and colours of the garden area, it's a sight to behold.
They have live music every Friday and Saturday, and sometimes on a Thursday and Sunday. They also serve wood-fired pizza, which for me always adds points to a place. They even have a Black Label special, R75 for 6. So if you find yourself spending a weekend in Sedgefield or Wilderness, at least now you know were to spend your evenings.
E-mail: info@cocomo-resturant.co.za
Tuesday, September 4, 2012
My Car Crash
For all of those how have been following my journey I would like to apologise for a long silence. I had a car accident. Don't worry, I am fine; no serious injuries were sustained, and no one else was involved. The car should be fixed by next week, and the journey is not over. I would just like to thank my father for all his assistance in this matter.
In the meantime I will be going through all my notes and filling you in on all the amazing things I have seen but just have not had the time to tell you about. I hope you enjoy reading them.
What, you want something funny and entertaining?
Come on guys I am giving you some sad news. I mean it's going to cost a couple grand to fix my dear sweet car; and you want jokes and humorous anecdotes? Well, okay. The car ended up on its side, so perhaps the image of me crawling out of the passenger side door as it stood facing the sky, will amuse you. *Sigh*, I suppose that was a bit uncalled-for. Its just that the last few days have been a bit tough. Of course the notion of hanging up the towel crossed my mind. Sure, the road can get lonely. When unspeakable beauty fills your eyes, the desire to turn to the passenger seat and say "Will you look at that; ain't it cool", becomes intense. Though the chances to see these things are not constant. Besides, I have you guys to share it with. Then I remember, I am not really alone; you are with me. In my heart; my mind, my desire to share wonders and experiences to those who would honour me by reading it.
This trip started out being about me, and my discovery of whatever seeps from the tarmac. Though I must admit, you are the fuel that drives me to continue. That may seem a bit sad. Perhaps it is. It does not bother me though. That is who I am. When you leave the world that told you what it thought you are, you must be willing to consider the person you find along the way. Not the person who sits next to you, but the person that sits inside you.
Wait, I sense that I may have veered somewhat off topic. Just a bit. Anyway, had an accident, sorry about the silence, will be back to posting tomorrow.
In the meantime I will be going through all my notes and filling you in on all the amazing things I have seen but just have not had the time to tell you about. I hope you enjoy reading them.
What, you want something funny and entertaining?
Come on guys I am giving you some sad news. I mean it's going to cost a couple grand to fix my dear sweet car; and you want jokes and humorous anecdotes? Well, okay. The car ended up on its side, so perhaps the image of me crawling out of the passenger side door as it stood facing the sky, will amuse you. *Sigh*, I suppose that was a bit uncalled-for. Its just that the last few days have been a bit tough. Of course the notion of hanging up the towel crossed my mind. Sure, the road can get lonely. When unspeakable beauty fills your eyes, the desire to turn to the passenger seat and say "Will you look at that; ain't it cool", becomes intense. Though the chances to see these things are not constant. Besides, I have you guys to share it with. Then I remember, I am not really alone; you are with me. In my heart; my mind, my desire to share wonders and experiences to those who would honour me by reading it.
This trip started out being about me, and my discovery of whatever seeps from the tarmac. Though I must admit, you are the fuel that drives me to continue. That may seem a bit sad. Perhaps it is. It does not bother me though. That is who I am. When you leave the world that told you what it thought you are, you must be willing to consider the person you find along the way. Not the person who sits next to you, but the person that sits inside you.
Wait, I sense that I may have veered somewhat off topic. Just a bit. Anyway, had an accident, sorry about the silence, will be back to posting tomorrow.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)